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Lumi i Shales Kayak / Packraft in the remote Albanian Alps

Our most significant exploration challenge.

By Packrafting.cat

September 27^th, 2025

Shala river (aka Lumi i Shales)

The Shalë (definite form in Albanian: Shala) or Lumi i Shalës is a river that flows through the Albanian Alps in northern Albania. Its source is near the village of Theth, close to the border with Montenegro, in the Albanian Alps National Park. It drains the central part of the Alps towards the south and flows into the Drin, artificially dammed as Lake Koman, near the village of Telum.

The Shalë generally flows southwards through the municipalities of Shalë, Shosh and Temal and is 37 km long. It rises at the Shtraza spring, above the village of Theth, at the foot of Radohina, from where it descends through the Shala, Thethi, Ndërlysa and Musha valleys, from Breg-Lumi to Porta e Shalës (Rrshqëm gorge), passing through Lotaj and the Shoshi valley, and flows into Lake Koman. It is a mountain river with an average drop of 22 metres per kilometre.

Location map of the Shala River in Albania.

The Lumi i Shales is distinguished by its crystal-clear waters, with an average annual flow of around 34 m³/s. The maximum flow is recorded in November, reaching 52 m³/s, while the minimum occurs in August, with just 9 m³/s. It is rich in fish, with trout being the most widespread species.

The characteristic cool blue colour of its waters and the imposing cliffs that surround it, which seem to touch the sky with their hands, make this river a tourist destination for both foreign and local visitors. Many describe it as the pearl of Koman and Albania's natural beauty.

But in this article, we won't be talking about the Lumi i Shales known to tourists. No! We explored the canyon, the entire river along its length from Theth to Lake Koman, and what we found was a unique adventure that we want to share:

Lumi i Shales Kayak / Packraft in the remote Albanian Alps

The Shala River is distinguished by its crystal clear waters, with an average annual flow of about 34 m³/sec. Maximum flows are reached in November, with 52 m³/sec, while minimum flows are recorded in August, with 9 m³/sec. It is rich in fish, but the most widespread is trout.

The cool blue colour of the water is characteristic of this river, whose steep cliffs seem to touch the sky. The river has become a tourist destination for both foreigners and locals, and many visitors describe it as the pearl of Koman and Albania's beauties.

Sections

🔴 T1 From Ndërlysaj to Ura e Re: 8-9 km of Class IV-V (X) combines technical and complex sections with a high density of large boulders with calmer sections where you can appreciate the majesty of the Albanian Alps.
🔵 T2 From Ura e Re to Lake Koman (Lumi i Shales resorts): 13.5 kilometres through an inhospitable and little-explored canyon in the heart of the Albanian Alps. The difficulty level is lower than the previous section, with class III-IV(X) rapids. There are some impassable sections, but they can be portaged. With the low water level in summer (August), the difficulty level drops to class III with specific class IV portageable sections. The difficulty of this section is determined by the level of commitment (an accident here complicates things greatly) and logistics. The entire section can be completed in a single day, but you have to spend at least one night away to return to the embarkation point. In our case, we spent two nights, one in a camp in the middle of the canyon and another in Shkodër due to bus transfer logistics.

Consult Google Maps for all logistics details. Sections:

We began our journey down the Lumi i Shales River at Nderlysaj (aka Blue Eye of Theth), travelling for two days to what is known to tourists as Lumi i Shales, the area of restaurants and hotels located at the mouth of the Shala River (Lumi i Shales) where it flows into the Drin River. This mouth is actually the tail end of a reservoir, the artificial lake known as Lake Komani or Lake Koman.
Ferry from Lumi i Shales to Koman, the town where the Drin River dam is located, creating Lake Koman (€20)
Bus from Lake Koman to Shkodër (Hotel Rozafa) (€10)
Bus de Shkodër a Theth (10-12 €)
Minibus de Theth a Nderlysaj (4€)

The logistical journey that must be made using different modes of transport: packraft, ferry, bus.

In total, it is three days and two nights:

Day 1. Packrafting down the Shala River from Nderlysaj to camp in the middle of the Lumi i Shales Canyon
Day 2 Packrafting + Ferry + Bus down the Shala River from the camp in the middle of the Shala River Canyon to Lake Koman. At midday, we take the ferry from Lumi i Shales to Koman and the bus that drops us off in Shkodër in the mid-afternoon. Overnight in Shkodër.
Day 3 Bus from Shkodër to Theth and arrival in Nderlysaj with the Blue Eye minibus.

A circular route that can be completed without the need for your own car.

We arranged the ferry to Lake Koman directly in Lumi i Shales, with the help of a friendly local lad who surprised us with his command of several languages and his quick wit. The largest ferry was the cheapest (€20 per person per trip).

Once we arrived in Shkodër, we looked for a place to stay on Booking and made a great choice with the Corner Hostel, which was very pleasant and inexpensive (about €12 per person per night). The reception staff took care of getting us tickets (at 7 a.m.) to return to Teth.

The minibus known as the Blue Eye bus costs €5 per person. No advance booking is required. During high season, buses leave fairly regularly for Nderlysaj from the visitor centre in Theth. You will be back in Theth by midday, leaving the afternoon free to visit the area.

The accommodation we chose in Nderlysaj, the Natyra campsite, was a great choice. The truth is that you don't need a campsite, as there are plenty of places to sleep in your van in the area where the rivers meet, but for €10 for two people and an incredible van, you can take a shower, have a cold drink at the bar, and they even let us leave the van in their car park for two nights.

This map shows the circular route. Although the route refers to the hike trail from Theth to Valbona, the idea is similar: combining buses and ferries to create a circular route.

Don’t get caught shitting

It was early in the morning, one of those mornings when the sun is still yawning and you're already loaded up with your rucksack, packraft inside, looking for thrills. Borja and I were walking along a secondary road, almost hidden, heading towards the Lumi i Shales River, in the heart of Albania. The idea was simple: to find the perfect spot to launch, with enough water and a start that wouldn't complicate our day too much.

Silence, wild nature, light filtering through the trees... and suddenly, fate had prepared for us a scene from National Geographic, but with a touch of scatological humour.

There, on the side of the road, between two bushes and with the mountains in the background, we came across a poor overlander... crouching... hard at work.

Yes, friends: he was releasing prisoners, letting the mole go, signing an agreement with invisible porcelain, making churros without chocolate, with Obama peeking out of the White House... in short, he was planting a pine tree on Albanian soil.

The problem is that we weren't even on the main road. No, no... Borja and I had decided to explore a side trail, one of those that lead nowhere, ending at a point of no return where several 4x4s had camped. The poor man must have thought, "I'm safe here, no one ever comes this way"... Until two guys with huge rucksacks showed up, smiling as if nothing had happened, looking for a place to put the packraft in the water.

The scene was surreal. We were greeting him, trying not to laugh too much, and the guy... well, it was too late to pretend. He didn't hide it or stop. He simply maintained his strategic position and continued negotiating with the dragon while, with heroic dignity, he cleaned himself with a few measly pieces of toilet paper that looked like they had been taken from a museum library.

It was one of those moments that you don't plan, that you don't forget, and that makes you laugh until you cry every time you remember it. And that's how, among mountains, packrafts, and toilet paper, we discovered that the wilderness knows no privacy.

Whatever you do, don’t get caught shitting.

I had dreamed of this for a long time: venturing into an almost unexplored river and having the chance to name its rapids. The idea that no one, at least to our knowledge, had left any record of them — let alone taken the liberty of naming them — filled us with excitement. It was like opening a blank map.

So here we are, naming "things" as if we were gods. It was really a very mundane pastime that helped us overcome boredom during long hours of driving through Albanian valleys.

During the descent of Lumi i Shales, Borja and I played at being explorers. We noted down the rapids we encountered and took photos. A few days later, as we drove along winding mountain roads and through wild landscapes, we laughed as we imagined names and wrote them down in a makeshift notebook and a WhatsApp group we shared.

Evidently, the banter prevailed with ideas such as:

Com Shalem (playing on the expression "xalar" — which we use in the Ebro region and means "to enjoy" — and the name of the river)
Albanian bunker. Our small tribute to the obsession of dictator Enver Hoxha.
Tito's bunker. More of the same, but with the famous Yugoslavian Tito thrown into the mix.
The Russian Preacher. Tribute to our colleague Grigori, Orthodox preacher.
The Protestant. Immersed in religion, we let our imaginations run wild, and orthodoxy wasn't so cool...
Too late after 6pm. Another tribute to our colleague Grigori and the Russian maxim that you shouldn't do anything complicated when dusk is approaching.
Kastrati. The petrol stations of the same name inspired us.
One-eyed blue eye. The misuse of the word Blue Eye in Albania certainly deserves to be included in this list.
Furra rapid or La Furre. Many days having breakfast at Furras (bakeries in the Balkans) is what it's all about.

🔴 T1 From Ndërlysaj to Ura e Re

This section is known as Upper Shala, the upper section of the Shala River, and is the most technical section (class IV-IV). In our case, with the low water level, the river was class III with some specific fourth-degree passages. Depending on where you start the route, you can cover between 5.5 and 8.8 km. In any case, it always ends at the last bridge accessible by the track. In our case, we did the 8.8 km, but we walked the first 3.3 km with our packrafts.

FEATURES

Level of difficulty: III-IV-V(X). Depending on the water level.
Distance of the route: 8.8 km
Desnivel: 188 metros
Estimated duration: 4-5 hours, depending largely on how many sections of the river are explored beforehand and how many safety points there are. With the low water levels in summer, you can easily add an extra hour.
Isolation: low, the track is always nearby, although in some sections there is no direct access.
Location: Dinaric Alps in Albania, Theth area.
Hydrology: Rain and snow. We visited Albania during a very dry summer, so much so that this was the only river we were able to navigate in the whole of Albania.
Favourable season: April to early May, when the snow melts, or in autumn, when it rains. We did it in August when the water level was very low, but just enough to navigate parts of this section. For example, the blue eye of Nderlysaj was completely dry. This leads us to believe that it may be possible to navigate this section all year round.
Recommended minimum flow rate: unknown. There are no meters in the area.
Type: Garden boulder, long and complex stretches of rock gardens.
Slope: 2% average with sections with much steeper gradients.
Whitewater: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Landscape:⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Water temperature: cold
Water quality: good
Nearby rivers: in a straight line, the Valbona, Cemit i Tamare, and Kir, but due to the terrain and Albanian roads, the distance by car is very long.
Hazards: Siphons.

There are several boarding points:

Camping Natyra / Nderlysaj area: if, like us, you are embarking on a multi-day expedition, the best place to leave your car and start the route is in the Nderlysaj area. The only problem may be that you have to walk if the river is very dry.
First bridge or Woodeen Bridge: the best option if you have two cars and recommended for kayaks. 2 km downstream following the track that leaves from Nderlysaj.
Access to the river after the first difficult stretch on a secondary road. Our chosen embarkation point, 3.5 km downstream, following first the track and then a short secondary road. It was the first stretch that we considered to have sufficient water and to be easily accessible on foot.

Some photos of the chosen boarding point.

If we follow the track, the fourth bridge from Theth is the landing point. From this point onwards, the track climbs and leaves the riverbed.

Views of the Shala River from the fourth bridge.

A preview of what we can expect in terms of white water:

The most important kilometre points:

Km 0: NATYRA Campsite in Nderlysajn. In our case, we walked this section due to a lack of sufficient water to navigate with the packrafts.
Km 1.4: Confluence of the Lumi i Shales River with the water coming from the Blue Eye of Theth. At this point, all the branches in the area come together in a single flow of water. It is another possible embarkation point. In our case, there was not enough water, so we continued walking along the unpaved track on the left bank of the river.
Km 2: First bridge (Wooden bridge) accessible via the unpaved track (no 4x4 required). In my opinion, this is the recommended access point by kayak and car. In our case, there was still too little water to navigate. In addition, this initial section is one of the most complicated, with large blocks of stone. We continued walking...
Km 2.1: A ravine that joins on the left bank has created an area of large boulders and rapids, which is particularly difficult when the water flow is high, with possible portage and siphons. Class IV-V depending on the water level. The entire section can be scouted from the riverbank. Fortunately, no passage is mandatory (not a must-run) and it is possible to portage along the bank or the track. With low water levels, everything is much more accessible. In our case, the water was too low to even make it worthwhile to unpack all the equipment and run the risk of having to portage continuously.
Km 2.5: In a double bend, first turning left and then right, there is another dense Boulder Garden. Everything is visible from the track, but prior scouting is required to assess the difficulty, which is very likely to be class IV-V depending on the water levels. We continue walking along the path.

Km 2.7 to km 3.5: Continuous stone garden with considerable unevenness. We were able to navigate this area because there was enough water, but access from the track is complicated. We decided to carry our boats, observing from above the huge accumulation of large boulders and challenging technical passages that must be very difficult, even impassable, when water levels are high. Assess the situation very carefully before entering this section, which is possibly the most difficult of all.
Km 3.5: Boarding point which we reached by turning off the main track and driving down a path/track only passable by 4x4 vehicle that leads to an abandoned field.
Km 3.5 to km 4.4: This section of the river runs a little further away from the track and can only be scouted beforehand from the river. With the low water level we encountered, it was a fun section with narrow passages and small drops. However, it should be noted that the river here still has a considerable slope of 40 metres in less than a kilometre, and a strong current can greatly change the difficulty level of this section (class III-IV).
Km 4.4: Water joins from a ravine on the left bank. From here to the second bridge, there is an area with manageable rapids without large boulders, allowing us to enjoy the rapids as well as the beautiful landscapes of the Albanian Alps.
Km 4.5 to km 6: The riverbed approaches the track again, although there is no direct access (the track runs a few metres above the riverbed). This area is much calmer, with more manageable rapids and no large boulders.
Km 6: We pass close to the Catholic Church of Kisha e Shtjefnit, where the track once again runs close to the riverbed.
Km 6.3: We arrive at the second bridge (suspension bridge). This is a footbridge accessible by car from the track.

Km 6.9: After a stretch of pleasant rapids with the track always very close by, we arrive at the third bridge and the Skollag bar-café.
Km 8: The track separates from the riverbed again until it reaches the area known as the Puerta de Lumi i Shales. Take great care on this section, as you will have to carry your boat because the entire riverbed passes under a large rock that blocks the entire river. With the low water level we encountered, there was no problem stopping and portaging, but with high water volumes this point can be dangerous, so portage well in advance. Once past the siphon, there is an area of narrow and technical rapids to be aware of.
Km 8.8: Ura e Re Bridge where we find the end of the first part: the Upper Lumi i Shales. From here on, the river no longer has an access track and enters a deep canyon from which it is only possible to exit in some sections via complicated paths with steep slopes or at the end of the canyon in the tourist area of Lumi i Shales. See the section T2 from Ura e Re to Lumi to Lake Koman.

This area is better known to tourists as the Blue Eye of Theth. And yes, it is well worth a visit, but in our case, our interest in this place was logistical. It is the ideal place to start the route because you can get there by car and a combination of bus from Shkodër (€10-12) and then a minibus from Theth to Nderlysaj (€5), the bus known as the Blue Eye Bus. There is also cheap camping accommodation here (€10 per night for a van and two people), many alternatives for sleeping in your own van, such as Park4night, places to eat and even a small supermarket (no fresh produce and everything quite expensive) to buy anything you might need at the last minute.

The only drawback, as you can see in the picture, is that the river wasn't very full in August 😱. Luckily, Packrafts are all-terrain and allowed us to embark further downstream from Nderlysaj.

The Lumi i Shales in the Nderlysaj area. The cross-country track. The water level was too low to embark at this point.

Surely the best option is the point where the water from the Blue Eye and other branches of the Lumi i Shales meet. The point is close to the track:

The area of the island between the Lumi i Shales River and the Blue Eye tributary is an ideal spot to find a place to camp freely and wildly, whether with your tents or your van.

A haven of freedom surrounded by nature.

Our day starts very early. We want to take advantage of the good weather and have the whole day to make progress towards the great canyon of the Lumi i Shales River. Rain is forecast for the afternoon, which could be heavy in some areas, and we want to make sure that we don't get caught in any rain on the most difficult part of the route (Upper Shale).

Initially, the idea was to join the river at the first bridge, but the low water level led us to rethink our strategy. Due to the length of the route and the slow progress along an unfamiliar river, with large boulders and a lot of scouting, we decided to enter further downstream and avoid one of the most complicated sections of the route, which had the most potential for portaging.

First bridge. The wooden bridge

Two kilometres from Nderlysaj is the first bridge, known as the wooden bridge. The bridge is accessible via an unpaved track (no 4x4 required) and, in my opinion, if you have your own transport, this is the best place to board. Our problem was that, as we only had one car, it didn't make sense to leave it here, because the minibus from Theth only takes you as far as Nderlysaj, which meant we would have had to walk this stretch anyway to get back to the van. It was much better to leave the van in a more sheltered place, such as the Natyra campsite.

In our case, we still saw little water to navigate and enter at this point. Although this was our initial idea—decided the day before during a preliminary scouting of the area by car—the low water level did not yet invite us to enter. In addition, this initial stretch is one of the most complicated, with large blocks of stones, so we decided to continue walking along the track.

This is also where the large boulders and the most challenging stretches of this section of the river begin.

View of the first challenging section of the river.

Some comments on apps such as Whitewaterguide or Rivermap indicate that the difficulty level of the area is much higher than described in the app. In my opinion, I agree that with more water and especially with high water levels, the stretch may only be suitable for experts and may even have impassable sections and dangers such as siphons that must be taken into account before embarking on this area.

The positive aspect is that the area is accessible from the track, making it possible to carry equipment and scout the area beforehand in order to assess the actual difficulty based on the water level and the group's skill level.

It was an option we had to choose due to lack of water, but it is very likely a highly recommended option if you want to avoid the most difficult stretch of the area, which is located just one kilometre before.

The day looked very promising, with sunshine, dreamlike scenery, and entertaining rapids...

From time to time, you have to carry your child, depending on how they feel at the time, with more or less enthusiasm for overcoming the countless small jumps and uneven surfaces.

With such a fast current, it is not always possible to keep the packraft facing downstream:

The rapids are very entertaining, with little water but requiring a lot of manoeuvring to avoid getting stuck.

Carnage

On this stretch, we already had a few minor dips in the water without any consequences.

I think the pictures make it clear how much we enjoyed this stretch. Although progress was slow with all the scouting, posing and so on, the truth is that it was great fun.

The formula of a sunny day + entertaining rapids + scenic backdrop equals several extra gigabytes of photos to the already vast photo library at packrafting.cat:

Second bridge. Suspension bridge

The second bridge, a wooden suspension bridge, is located at km 6.3.

Always very important: every now and then, look upstream. Sometimes when rowing, we forget to do so and we can miss out on landscapes that feed the soul.

Laberinto de rocas en el puente colgante.

Third bridge. Bar - Café Skollaj

In this area, around a bridge leading to Nemavriq, there are a few houses offering accommodation, a campsite, and a bar called Kafe Skollaj. This is our last chance to buy or consume something to drink or eat because from here on, we will have no further opportunity to restock.

As you can see in the photos, this section had just enough water to navigate. With more volume, the whitewater experience in this section would be much better without becoming a difficult section. Either way, what never fails is the jaw-dropping effect that the surrounding landscape will have on you.

The door. Porta E Shales

Whether arriving by road or river, you will clearly identify this point where the river narrows for a short stretch, but is full of large boulders.

Two walls come so close together that they form a clear entrance through which the Shala River flows.

Located at kilometre 8 of our route, just over a kilometre from the bar bridge, in an area where the track winds around a ravine that feeds into the Shala River just before the gate.

It is very common for areas where ravines flow into a river to contain passages and rapids caused by debris, and in this case "large debris", from stones that these ravines incorporate into the main channel at specific times of flooding.

At the entrance to the gate, there are some interesting rapids between large blocks of stone, but be careful: you will then encounter a large block of stone that blocks the entire riverbed in a dangerous siphon that must be avoided by carrying your boat up the left side of the large rock.

The door seen from the runway:

And this is what the door looks like from the water:

In this area, there are some narrow, technical sections with a certain degree of incline where uncontrolled speed is useless.

Google Maps has some aerial photos of the area that say it all. Before coming here, I knew that this was one of the most spectacular areas we would encounter in Lumi i Shales:

Aguas arriba una tormenta amenazante (¿el pasado?), aguas arriba la esperanza de la luz (¿el futuro?)

The great siphon

Located in the Puerta de Lumi i Shales area, this siphon forces us to climb up and down large blocks of stone, avoiding getting trapped in this deadly trap.

In the following video, you can see the storm that was chasing us without ever catching up to us, as well as the siphon located in the area of the Lumi i Shales gate.

Surprisingly, there is still mobile coverage in this area, and we kept a constant eye on the weather radars to see if there had been heavy rainfall upstream, lest we get caught in a river flood. It must be said that the river level did not rise one iota (in fact, a few extra inches of water would have been welcome).

Portage, especially with packrafts, is quite affordable.

Aerial view of the large siphon (the top of the photo is north). The large block of stone that you can see downstream, at the bottom of the photo, very close to the bend in the track, is what forms the siphon.

Carlos Izquierdo, who often accompanies us on many of our routes, is always there, even when he cannot come. It is always a good idea to contact someone who is not on the route and let them know our plans, when we enter the river and when we leave.

On the right, you can see how I shared some photos of the site with him and how he immediately analysed the location: "large boulders" = "possible siphons".

Specifically, the photo was taken after the large siphon, in a very beautiful area where the rock covers almost 100% of the sky and where you have to manoeuvre through narrow passages, avoiding obstacles on the right bank of the river.

In the background of the photo, you can see the curve of the track. This is the best spot to observe from the tranquillity of the track and scout the area so that you can decide which are the best lines or, if necessary, the best point to temporarily leave the riverbed and carry your equipment through this area, which is sure to be very dangerous with large volumes of water.

Disembarkation of the first section. Fourth bridge or Ura e Re Bridge

This is the furthest point you can reach by following the track by car or on foot, almost 9 km from Nderlysaj. From here begins the little-explored Lumi i Shales River Canyon, a remote area that is difficult to access. The only option here is to navigate downstream along the Lumi i Shales River, with very few possible exit points (and only via long, steep, wild and little-used trails). Once you enter the canyon, the next encounter with civilisation is almost 14 km away in the tourist area of Lumi i Shales.

As we were on an expedition, we continued on our route with the idea of making the most of the day and the hours of sunshine available in summer, with the aim of completing most of the second section of the canyon that same day. For organisational reasons, if you want to continue with the route description, you have to skip to the description of T2 from the Ura e Re bridge to Lake Koman.

In the meantime, I will open a section explaining what the experience was like during our overnight camp in the middle of the Lumi i Shales Canyon.

As is often the case, when you consider spending a night camping, part of my brain tends to look for every possible excuse and think about the discomforts. It must be acknowledged that the extra weight you have to carry while sailing and hiking with your house on your back is a compelling reason to think twice.

The "convenience" of having two cars often makes it easier to decide not to camp, even if it means long days of driving and complicated logistics. The truth is that I have special memories of all the rivers where I ended up spending the night, and I deeply regret not having spent nights on rivers such as the Tara or the incredible Ahansal in Morocco.

The experience on the Lumi i Shales River did not disappoint. Although a storm chased us throughout the afternoon and looked like it was going to catch up with us, in the end the weather was kind to us with a clear night and very pleasant temperatures. We were prepared for colder weather.

Finding material to build a fire was a piece of cake; the area around the camp was full of driftwood, or wood that had been washed up from the river.

The only thing that went wrong with our logistics was when we realised we hadn't brought any pots to heat water for our freeze-dried food. Then I remembered an experiment we had recently done with my son Romeu, where we tested that plastic does not burn as long as it contains water, so we slowly used this thermodynamic principle to heat our food.

Once we had eaten, we settled down at the campsite and enjoyed the moment. We talked about the best and worst moments of the day, our swims, and watched the fire and the stars as the evening flew by. I even had time to watch a series I had downloaded onto my mobile phone.

Out of sheer necessity (we forgot to bring a saucepan to heat the water), we discovered that with patience it is possible to heat hydrolysed food directly in its packaging.

Campsite location. You will find countless small beaches where you can spend the night.

And what equipment should we take for an overnight stay?

Hydrolysed food courtesy of our colleague Carlos, who lent it to us on our previous trip to Finland in Packraft.
Lighter: very important for lighting the fire
Sleeping bag. In the middle of summer, it gets cool at night, but I didn't need a very warm bag.
A blanket or some kind of tarp to protect against dampness and dew at night.
A mat and, in my case, the luxury of a small cushion.
Warm clothing, three layers.
Small stoves that we didn't end up using because we left a saucepan behind to heat the water.
Water or a water filtration and purification system. For one night, we decided to carry our own water with the idea of refilling at restaurants in the tourist area of Lumi i Shales.
Waterproof bags to carry all this material without it getting wet.
It states

Minimalist stuff.

At night, I played around with my mobile phone and long exposure for a while, capturing an intense starry sky and the reflection of the fire in the vegetation around us.

And how the fire can heat things up! It was a bit chilly, but between the fire and that moment at the beginning of the evening when your body releases all the heat accumulated during a sunny day...

Watching the Bosch series in a place like this... life is full of surprises.

Uno de los rápidos más complejos y más fáciles de identificar debido a la característica roca de estrias rojas que hay en la orilla izquierda del río.

🔵 T2 From Ura e Re to lago Koman (Lumi i Shales resorts)

These 13.5 kilometres through an inhospitable and little-explored canyon in the heart of the Albanian Alps are the jewel of the Lumi i Shales River. The technical difficulty is lower than in the previous section: class III-IV(X) rapids predominate, with some impassable ones that can be portaged without any problem. But here, the most remarkable thing is not the rapids, which are also there and very interesting. The most important thing is the feeling of wild adventure, of being in a place where very few people have been, surrounded by unspoilt and unexplored nature.

When we did it in summer (August), with low water levels, the difficulty was reduced to class III, with a few class IV sections that were also manageable.

Beyond the technical aspects, what really makes this section difficult is the level of commitment required: an accident here would cause serious complications, both due to the isolation and the logistics involved. The route can be completed in a single day, but it is necessary to spend at least one night away from home in order to return to the starting point. In our case, it was two nights: one in a camp in the middle of the canyon and another in Shkodër, due to the logistics of travelling by bus.

FEATURES

Level of difficulty: III-IV(X). Depending on the water level.
Distance of the route: 13.5 km
Desnivel: 131 metros
Estimated duration: 4 hours, depending largely on how many sections of the river are explored beforehand and how many safety points there are. With the low water levels in summer, you can easily add an extra hour.
Isolation: very high, no escape route except for a path over 10 km long with a 600-metre elevation gain, which is the only way out halfway down the canyon.
Location: Dinaric Alps in Albania, Lumi i Shales area.
Hydrology: Rain and snow. We visited Albania during a very dry summer, so much so that this was the only river we were able to navigate in the whole of Albania.
Best time of year: April to early May, when the snow melts, or in autumn, when it rains. We did it in August when the water level was very low, but just enough to navigate parts of this stretch. For example, the blue eye at Nderlysaj was completely dry. This leads us to believe that it may be possible to navigate this stretch all year round.
Recommended minimum flow rate: unknown. There are no meters in the area.
Type: Garden boulder and Canyon
Whitewater: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Landscape:⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Water temperature: cold
Water quality: good
Nearby rivers: in a straight line, the Valbona, Cemit i Tamare, and Kir, but due to the terrain and Albanian roads, the distance by car is very long.
Hazards: Siphons and trees blocking narrow passages.

The following aerial photo shows the boarding area (on the bridge) and the start of the great canyon of the Lumi i Shales River, seen from a drone located right at the Lumi i Shales Gate.

The De Ura e Re bridge is the furthest point we can reach via the track that follows the Lumi i Shales river. From this point onwards, the track climbs towards villages lost in the Dinaric Alps, via tracks that are only accessible by 4x4 vehicles, and moves away from the riverbed. This is where the adventure begins...

There are very few references to this stretch of the river (if you know of any, I would appreciate it if you could send me a message at info@packrafting.cat). On Packraft, I only found the information that can be found on this blog.

This stretch ends in the area of hotels and restaurants known by the name of the river we are travelling down: "Lumi i Shales". These kinds of coincidences make it even more difficult to find information about the river that is not related to this tourist area.

The most important kilometre points are:

Km 0: The Ura e Re Bridge marks the beginning of the Lumi i Shales Canyon and the entrance to a very remote and isolated area where you will only find one exit point surrounded by walls and paths with a height difference of more than 600 metres and a route of nearly 10 km to reach any civilised area.
Km 1.3: In the first kilometre after the bridge, the river widens slightly and, due to the large number of rocks and the low water volume, we occasionally have to lift the packraft out of the water and carry it a short distance. At kilometre 1.3, we reach a large boulder where a ravine flows into the river and there is a large pool of crystal-clear green water.
Km 1.7: Entrance to the gorge. At this point, the gorge narrows and we enter one of the most remote, wild and beautiful areas of the Shala River.
Km 3.2: Large beach with pebbles (rolling stones)
Km 3.7: Albanian bunker rapid.
Km 5.1: The "bridge", and I put it in quotation marks because it is almost destroyed and in very poor condition. This is where the only road that allows us to leave the canyon passes.
Km 5.7: Rapids of the red striated wall
Km 5.9: Area where we camped for the night. I am only mentioning this for informational purposes; you can camp wherever suits you best, as there are countless sandy beaches and places to set up camp.
Km 6.2: The Kastrati rapid, a rapid we portaged. A large block of stone only allows two passages, one on the right and one on the left. The passage on the left is wider and cleaner, but there was no water and a branch was partially blocking the rapid. The one on the right seemed more accessible, but with a narrow landing and a rock obstacle on the reception.
Km 7.4 Narrow passage blocked by old footbridge. We had to carry some large blocks of stone that were the supports of a bridge, now destroyed, most likely by a flood. From this point on, the rapids are class II, increasingly calmer and, in our case, even shallow at times when the river widens its course.
Km 11: The river loses its gradient, and at this point we encounter the last rapids and enter the calm waters of Lumi i Shales. However, the walls surrounding you do not lose their spectacular nature, but rather become even more spectacular with significant gradients. The river is at an altitude of about 320 metres and the mountains around us reach an altitude of 750 metres. You may already encounter some hikers coming from the resorts, following the river upstream in search of crystal-clear pools where they can bathe and relax.
Km 11.8: join the right bank of the Stupës tributary.
Km 12.2: The river turns left towards the east, and you will begin to see the first tourists and the first lodgings, bars, and restaurants of Lumi i Shales.
Km 13.4: End of the route in the tourist area of Lumi i Shales and beginning of Lake Koman.

In Lumi i Shales, we rest, have something to eat in one of the restaurants, rehydrate, and at midday we take the ferry to Koman and from there the bus to Shkodër.

Another rather more challenging option is to return to Theth, or at least to the Theth trail, via the route we described in the section on "the bridge". This is a demanding route that will take you a whole day of walking, and I would even recommend staying overnight at one of the lodgings or campsites along the way.

A large rock with a distinctive shape (see photo) is located at km 1.3 of the second section, and near a ravine on the left bank, we reach a pool of crystal-clear green water. At the previous kilometre, from the bridge, the river has widened a little and, due to the large number of rocks and the low volume of water, we occasionally have to lift the packraft and carry it a short distance.

The day is already starting to feel long, and we're beginning to see lots of beaches like the one in the photo, which make us wonder whether to stop or not. Will there be more beaches like this further on?

There are many camping options in this area of the river.

During this stretch, we combine calm waters in crystal-clear backwaters with some entertaining rapids that are clearly lacking a little water.

A few drops of rain fall on us, and at various times we experience the typical gusts of wind and darkening of the sky that warn us that a heavy storm is about to break. We look upstream and see very black clouds and even sheets of water falling on the horizon, accompanied by the occasional clap of thunder.

Fortunately, the storm never reaches us, nor does it appear to have rained upstream, as the water level in the river does not rise even a finger's breadth at any point.

This stretch is one of the most entertaining, with continuous rapids and large boulders that force you to manoeuvre constantly.

Large beach with pebbles (rolling stones)

At kilometre marker 3.2, we will arrive at an easily identifiable large pebble beach.

Fast from the Albano Bunker

Although we were already feeling tired (just look at our faces), I personally couldn't stop smiling and enjoying rapids like this one. You have to see the photos! Several consecutive drops, rocks to avoid and the occasional spot where the water passes under the stones, giving the rapid its name: Albano bunker. It would have been nice if the Albanian tyrant who ruled and ruined this magnificent country for so long had been lost in these holes or "safe havens".

The express train is located 3.7 kilometres from the bridge at the start of the second section.

NOTE: We gave it its name, as is our right 😉 for being among the first explorers of this river. Perhaps not the very first, but at least we haven't found any documentation of the rapids.

The “bridge” on the only road in the canyon

The remains of a bridge are an indication of better times and at least a possible escape route from the canyon, because if there was a bridge here, it means that there is or was a road.

The other bridge on the route is in poor condition. Bear in mind that it is only possible to cross the river in the canyon without these bridges when the water level is low.

And yes! The guess is correct. If we look at the maps, this is the point where the arduous Lumi i Shales trail crosses the canyon. On the right bank, the trail climbs up to the Catholic church (Kisha Katolike) in the village of Ndrejaj-Shosh. This village is reached by the track that we left the day before at the last bridge just at the start of the second section. But it is not an easy way out of the village to the bridge: the track is almost 8 km long with a 500-metre elevation gain, and on the way up you have to climb almost 600 metres.

On the left bank is the path to Lumi i Shales, a route of more than 7.5 kilometres that climbs to 852 metres, rising more than 600 metres above the river, before descending again to 180 metres at the Lumi i Shales hotel area.

It's not a good place to have an emergency and need to get out of the gorge, but it's the only escape point on the route.

Shtegu nga Pepsumaj - Snow in Shales

Pepsumai to Theth

Red streaks on the wall rapid

This rapid, located at kilometre X, is easily recognisable by the geological curiosity represented by intense reddish streaks on the wall on the left bank of the rapid.

Borja fell in love with this wall. Although I also think he found it a good opportunity to rest after the long day we had spent walking and rowing.

These are stratified sedimentary rocks, probably limestone and marl interspersed with layers rich in iron oxides. The red colour is typical of the presence of haematite (Fe₂O₃) or limonite, minerals that form when iron present in sediments oxidises in shallow, well-oxygenated continental or marine environments.

The colour white or light grey usually corresponds to layers of purer limestone or dolomite, with lower iron content.

These sediments were probably deposited in an ancient sea or sedimentary basin millions of years ago. Each layer represents a different sedimentation episode: periods with more iron input (red layers) and periods with less calcium carbonate (light-coloured layers). These changes may be linked to climate fluctuations, sea level variations or inputs from rivers laden with iron-rich sediments.

Originally, these strata were deposited horizontally, like all sediments. Later, tectonic movements (folding and uplifting of the Earth's crust, probably linked to Alpine orogeny in this mountainous region) folded and tilted these layers, giving them the inclination we see today. The almost vertical arrangement indicates intense tectonic deformation: the crust was compressed and the rocks were uplifted along with the formation of mountains.

River erosion has cut perpendicularly through these layers, exposing the contrasting colours. Water and weather have further polished and enhanced the tones, creating a spectacular "stratigraphic wall".

What spectacular sights nature offers us!

Kastrati’s rapid

The rapid at Kastrati, a rapid we portaged. A large block of stone only allows two passages, one on the right and one on the left. The passage on the left is wider and cleaner, but there was no water and a branch was partially blocking the rapid. The one on the right seemed more accessible, but with a narrow landing and a stone obstacle on the reception.

NOTE: We chose the name ourselves, as our right 😉 for being among the first explorers of this river. Perhaps not the very first, but at least we haven't found any documentation of the rapids.

As I mentioned, the reception on the left side of the line was not very pleasant, with possible kastrati😉. And on the right, there was little water and a branch blocking the way. We decided to carry our gear.

Rapids

There are countless examples of photos of rapids that we have not documented...

Blockage on old bridge

Another portage we had to do. Located at kilometre 7.4, the waterway is very narrow for packrafts and there is a branch blocking the way.

The large stone blocks were the supports of a bridge that has now been destroyed, most likely by a flood, although the flood must have been terrifying, very heavy, to have collapsed the structure or even reached the height of the bridge.

This bridge was part of the road between Lumi i Shales and Theth, which we have already mentioned and explained in the section on the other bridge in poor condition. Now, to travel this road, you have to wade across the river, as it is impossible to cross the bridge.

This photograph shows the ruined state of the structure that once crossed the Lumi i Shales river at this point, as part of the road from Lumi i Shales to Theth.

The photo shows the remains of the old bridge and the tree blocking a narrow passage. Currently, some tourists arrive in this area from Lumi i Shales, and it is an interesting excursion if you want to find a quieter and more secluded pool in the tourist area of Lumi i Shales.

On the right bank, there is a small beach where you can start carrying your boat, avoiding the large boulders.

Last part of the canyon

As we progress, the rapids become less difficult, but we reach one of the most beautiful parts. As can be seen on the topographic map, the river is surrounded by dense contour lines, which already gave us an idea of the depth of the Lumi i Shales canyon. A particular gem is the wall on the right bank, mountains located between the passage of the two rivers in the area.

The map above shows the challenging climb up to the village of Mollë, located near the highest peak in the area at 769 metres, a path that descends again towards the destroyed bridge we mentioned earlier.

Once you've passed the last rapid, it's time to relax: put your feet up and enjoy the sun and the views!

With the arrival at the calm waters and the sun rising, we took the opportunity to freshen up and clean ourselves after a wild night in the canyon. We are happy, we have overcome the challenge of the Lumi i Shales Canyon without any notable mishaps. What a moment!

Soon we came across the first tourist facilities and the first tourists. We were pleasantly surprised that there weren't as many people as we had expected. It was early in the morning and the area was quiet, but only because the hordes of daily visitors that the ferries and private boats unload from 11am to 12 noon had not yet arrived.

The look on the tourists' faces when they saw two people arriving on Packrafts was a pretty interesting part of the trip 😜

And I should emphasise the tourist aspect. Lumi i Shales is the name of the Shala River in Albanian, but if you search for Lumi i Shales on the internet right now, you will struggle to find information about the river itself. Most of the information will be about the mouth of the Shala River where it flows into the Drin River, in an area flooded by the Koman Reservoir.

💡PRO TIP: If you decide to visit this area as tourists, here's a recommendation: stay overnight, because if you only come for a day trip, you'll be taken on a ferry at the same time as all the other ferries and private boats arrive with tourists, a horde of visitors that makes the visit lose much of its appeal. We arrived before the ferries arrived (between 11 a.m. and 12 noon), and the place was quieter with only the tourists who had spent the night at the resorts.

When it comes to food, you have different options. They are not the best prices or the best restaurants in Albania, but if you are on an expedition, you will be grateful to eat something:

We let Carlos know that we are now out of the gorge and can relax, restock our supplies and wait for the ferry to take us back to Theth.

The best photos from our adventure

Some photos of the customised (DIY) Itiwit 100 packraft, which turned out to be a winning choice for this stretch. Being so small, it was ideal for navigating narrow passages and manoeuvring between large boulders.

Team

Sergi:

Borja:

We have so many photos...

I can't bring myself to delete any photos... I like them all 🤷

Wikiloc map

Packrafting Lumi i shales canyon. Shala river (Albania)

Google My Map

Lumi i Shales

Videos and other resources

A very interesting resource (in Dutch) is the Belgian Kayak Club Nirjhara, with whom I recently had the pleasure of sharing a Packraft Tour through the Austrian Tyrol. They wrote about the Shala River in the following links:

Northern Albania is impressive, and their website features posts about other rivers they have paddled, such as the Valbona, Gashit, Kir, Tamara, Cem I Vuklit, Moraca, and the Lim in Montenegro.

Other rivers in the area

Ferry de Lumi i Shales a Koman

To top it all off, the ferry back to Koman, on the way to Skhroder, allows us to appreciate the lake formed by the Drin River.

Shkodër

Shkodër (/ˈʃkoʊdər/ SHKOH-dər; in Albanian: [ˈʃkɔdəɾ]; definite form: Shkodra; historically known as Scodra or Scutari) is the fifth most populous city in Albania and the capital of both the county and municipality of Shkodër. It has been continuously inhabited since the Early Bronze Age (c. 2250–2000 BC) and has around 2,200 years of documented history. The city lies on the Mbishkodra plain, between the southern part of Lake Shkodër and the foothills of the Albanian Alps, on the banks of the Buna, Drin and Kir rivers. Its proximity to the Adriatic Sea gives it a seasonal Mediterranean climate with continental influences.

An urban settlement called Skodra was founded by the Illyrian tribe of the Labeatae in the 4th century BC. It later became the capital of the Illyrian kingdom under the Ardiaei and Labeatae, and was one of the most important cities in the Balkans in ancient times. Historically, it developed on a 130-metre hill, strategically located at the mouth of Lake Shkodër towards the Buna River. The Romans annexed the city after the Third Illyrian War in 168 BC, when the Illyrian king Gencius was defeated by the Roman troops of Anicius Gallus. In the 3rd century AD, Shkodër became the capital of the province of Praevalitana thanks to the administrative reform of the Roman emperor Diocletian. With the spread of Christianity in the 4th century, the Archdiocese of Scodra was established, taken over in 535 by the Byzantine emperor Justinian I.

Shkodër is considered the traditional capital of northern Albania, also known as Gegëria, and is renowned among Albanians for its art, culture, religious diversity and turbulent history. Its architecture is marked by the presence of mosques and churches, reflecting its high degree of diversity and religious tolerance. It was also home to numerous influential figures who contributed, among other things, to the Albanian Renaissance.

At Traditional Food, I undoubtedly had the best culinary experience in Albania, a simple restaurant but with delicious local food.

We stayed at the Corner Hostel when we arrived in Shkodër. We looked on Booking.com and found several hostels available, even though it was August. I think we made a good choice with this hostel. Everything was very good.

Theth

The next morning from Shkodër (7am), a long bus ride took us to Theth at midday, where we took the opportunity to revisit the area, swim in its pools and visit the Blue Eye, which, despite being dry, was well worth a visit.

The Blue Eye of Theth (Syri i Kalter i Thethit) is one of the natural jewels of the Albanian Alps. It is a pool of crystal clear, intense turquoise water that emerges in the middle of a karst environment, fed by underground springs of great purity. The cold, transparent water flows between rocks and dense vegetation, forming a corner of great beauty in contrast to the green forests and rugged mountains that surround it. Its name comes from its similarity to a bright blue iris, and it has become an iconic spot for hikers and travellers seeking to discover the unspoilt nature of the Theth Valley.

The photos are from a previous trip in June 2024. Below you can see photos of the Blue Eye when it was dry and compare the two.

The blue eye at the end of August 2025.

Accommodation. NATYRA Campsite in Nderlysaj

Bar caffe camping “NATYRA” €10 per night in the van for two people. They looked after our car and were very attentive and helpful.

The river is a living, changing environment that is subject to constant development. The publishers of the river sketches and the creators of this website cannot be held liable in any way for any inaccuracies, omissions or errors in the river sketches. The publishers of the sketches and creators of the website decline all responsibility in the event of any accident that may occur on the rivers described in this guide.