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Packraft on the Nile, Egypt, Aswan

Inflatable kayaking in a special place, the waters of the Nile River near Aswan. Route around the islands: Sehel, Isis and Elephantine.

By Packrafting.cat

July 29^th, 2025

Days before putting my packraft in the Nile River, I had crossed it in a more traditional way: two nights aboard a felucca, that triangular sailing boat so characteristic of this part of Egypt, inhabited for a long time by the Nubians. The crossing was ... Well, I don't know how to define it, an unforgettable experience, unforgettable landscapes and a story to tell about what happened during those days of sailing alone between two men from very different cultures 😂.

I got in touch with Captain Hamada thanks to Sara, an American woman I met in the White Desert while we were sharing camp, dust and travel anecdotes under the starry sky of the bivouac we made surrounded by the characteristic rock formations formed by wind erosion(yardangs) and mushrom rocks. Before saying goodbye, he said to me:

-If you pass through Aswan, talk to Hamada. He's quiet, honest... and a good cook. I'll tell him that a Spanish guy will write to him.

What Sara perhaps did not foresee (or perhaps she did? 😂) was the semantic potential of poorly digested English.

On arrival in Aswan I contacted Captain Hamada. Very quickly we arranged to meet at the KFC in front of the Nile in Aswan and set sail that evening. Two nights sharing the Nile in complete silence, floating aimlessly between sandbanks and red sunset skies, we slept under the stars, ate what Hamada cooked in his portable kitchen, delicious! And we talked just enough.

But from time to time Hamada, in his rusty English (even more macaronic than mine, which is saying something), would ask a question or two. What I would never have expected was that he would suddenly ask me:

Do you like men? Are you gay?

Patapam! Just like that. It took me a while to pull myself together after which I explained to my captain that I was married, showed him the ring and told him about my family. As if all that had never been used as a cover...

The delicious dinners that my captain Hamada prepared for me by candlelight.

It was equal parts funny and embarrassing. In the end, my captain Hamada showed me the WhatsApp message Sara sent him and said he asked me if I was Gay/Guy because Sara had told him I was a Spanish Guy 😂. I laughed for a while, but later I thought: What if it was all an excuse to ask and see what happened?

Captain Hamada guiding the Feluca at sunset on a day I will always remember.

From the felucca to the packraft: islands, wind and playful rapids.

After that experience, my body was asking for something lighter, more solitary. Packraft appeared as the perfect answer.

I had already floated the day before around the Philae temple, a jewel rescued by UNESCO before the water swallowed it up. Paddling near those columns with my floating contraption was an image I will never forget. A total contrast between the monumental and the ephemeral.

And now I was there in Aswan observing the Nile, evaluating/preparing my next adventure. But without paddle or waistcoat: technical details, which due to logistical issues (read baggage limitations on low cost flights) I had left behind.

A local kayak club, the Nubian Kayak Club, saved the day. They lent me everything I needed without asking for anything in return, and again I was summoned to the KFC on the banks of the Nile (I think it must be a quasi-official spot to meet the tourists in Aswan) where a young Egyptian man brought me the gear I was missing. As I was looking at the Nile, the boy said to me:

-Don't worry, there are no crocodiles here.

-What? - I said, surprised.

-From the Aswan Dam. They were thrown out.

-How did they get kicked out?

-I don't know... but there are none left. Or almost.

And there I am, jumping into the river with an "almost" in my head... those of you who know me know that, on the one hand, an encounter with crocodiles would not displease me, but on the other hand I couldn't help thinking of the urban legends of a famous feast of human flesh that happened when a boat sank in Lake Nasser.

The other side of the Nile: intimate, wild and crocodile-free (so they say).

From the lower Aswan Dam to beyond Sehel Island, the Nile becomes a veritable maze of narrow channels, granite islets, palm groves and gentle rapids. It's not a technical stretch, but it's playful enough with scenery you wouldn't expect.

Some passages between rocks speed up, bubbling, creating the longed-for white water that those of us lacking adrenaline seek. One of them, in particular, surprised me for its beauty: two islets facing each other as if they wanted to trap you, a current generated by the narrowness of the passage that drags you and then expels you elegantly in a haven of peace. Small moments of adrenaline in a setting that seems designed for contemplation.

The desert, meanwhile, spills over the shores. On one side, endless dunes. On the other, blue-painted Nubian villages and children shouting things at me from the shore. One asked me if I was on a floating banana. I said yes, why explain to him what a packraft is?

I came back to land with the feeling of having experienced the Nile in a way that few can imagine. From the slow sails of the felucca and the restless hands of Hamada, to the rapids hidden among silent islands.

A journey that began with a linguistic misunderstanding and ended up floating, happy, among sands, wind (not much) and the eternal murmur of the river.

The River Nile

The heart of ancient Egypt

The Nile River is one of the most iconic waterways in the world, not only for its impressive length, but also for the crucial role it has played in the development of Egyptian civilisation.

Source and course

The Nile rises in the Great Lakes region of Central Africa. Traditionally, its furthest source is considered to be the Kagera River, which flows into Lake Victoria, shared by Uganda, Tanzania and Kenya. From there, the river begins its journey north through several countries: Uganda, South Sudan, Sudan and finally Egypt, before flowing into the Mediterranean Sea through the famous Nile Delta.

Length

At approximately 6,650 km, the Nile has for decades disputed the title of the world's longest river with the Amazon. Its basin covers about 3.4 million km².

The Nile in Egypt

Once it enters Egypt from the south, the Nile runs some 1,300km into the country and is its only significant source of fresh water. It forms a fertile valley between the Sahara Desert to the west and the Arabian Desert to the east. Ninety-five per cent of Egypt's population lives along its banks, illustrating its enormous importance.

Rapids and waterfalls

The Nile rapids or waterfalls are actually found further south in Sudan, not Egypt. Six main waterfalls are identified, all between Khartoum and Aswan. The first cataract, at Aswan, marks the traditional southern boundary of Ancient Egypt. From there to the north, the Nile flows more calmly, which has facilitated navigation and river trade since ancient times.

The construction of Lake Nasser

One of the most important modern milestones in the history of the Nile in Egypt is the construction of the Aswan Dam, completed in 1970 with Soviet assistance. This enormous structure created Lake Nasser, one of the largest artificial reservoirs in the world, with a surface area of more than 5,000 km², even extending into northern Sudan.

The purpose of the dam was:

Control the annual floods of the Nile.
Provide regular irrigation for agriculture.
Generate hydroelectric power (about 10-15% of Egypt's energy supply at the time).
Improve the navigability of the river.

However, it also had major ecological and social consequences, such as the loss of fertile soils due to the lack of natural sedimentation and the displacement of entire communities, including the Nubians.

I couldn't help but wonder what this area of the Nile must have looked like before the dam was built 😍.

More information about the dam at https://www.iagua.es/noticias/locken/presa-asuan-primera-parte-infraestructura-faraonica

Lake Nasser and the rescue of EGYPTIAN temples

The creation of Lake Nasser following the construction of the Aswan Dam not only transformed the landscape of southern Egypt and northern Sudan, but also threatened to submerge priceless historical monuments, especially in the Nubian region. This led to one of the most ambitious archaeological rescue operations of the 20th century, coordinated by UNESCO between 1960 and 1980.

The most emblematic case was that of the Abu Simbel temples, built by Ramses II in the 13th century BC. At the risk of being submerged under the waters of the new lake, the temples were cut into blocks weighing up to 30 tons, dismantled piece by piece, and rebuilt 65 metres higher and 200 metres further back, on an artificial hill that faithfully reproduces the original orientation towards the sun.

In addition to Abu Simbel, other temples were also moved, such as Philae, dedicated to the goddess Isis, which was dismantled and rebuilt on the island of Agilkia.

This international effort saved a vital part of Egypt's heritage and set a precedent in global cultural cooperation. In return for the support received, Egypt donated some temples to collaborating countries, such as the Temple of Debod, which can now be visited in Madrid.

The longest river in the world?

For a long time, the Nile was considered the longest river in the world, but recent studies have reignited a dispute with the Amazon in South America. Depending on sources and how the exact source of the river and its tributaries is measured, some estimates give the Amazon a slightly longer length, exceeding 7,000 km if the Ucayali-Apurimac system in Peru is included as its main source. However, other experts still give the Nile the top spot at 6,650 km. The controversy is still open and depends on geographical, hydrological and methodological criteria. Beyond the title, both rivers are giants that feed vital ecosystems and entire civilisations.

This dispute reminds me of how my friend and documentary filmmakerCesar Pasadas explains several times in the documentary a tocar de l'aiguathe usual controversies to decide which is the source of a river

Boarding

A boarding ramp, in an area that appears to be the main passage to reach Sehel Island by ferry, is the point I chose to enter the Nile River.

Landing

Without a doubt the accommodation I recommend in Aswan, the GoInn Backpackers hostel, the manager Ghandi very nice, a friend of the people of the Nubian Kayak club, an accommodation with a terrace and direct access to the Nile River, where you can rent kayaks to paddle along the historic river. They also organised the taxi to Aswan airport for me at a very good price and probably the cheapest place to hire your excursions in Aswan.

In the river

The most important kilometre points are:

Km 0. Boarding point at the ramp of the boat crossing that connects Aswan to Sehel Island.
Km 0.1: Sehel Island, take advantage of the calm waters to paddle up the Nile in search of the rapids that remain of the former first Nile waterfall at Aswan, now just a few small rapids since the construction of the Aswan Dam.
Km 0.5: you will reach a camping area on the south side of Sehel Island. If I ever come back I think this would be a good place to spend a camping experience on the waters of the Nile River, a very quiet and relaxing area away from the hustle and bustle of Aswan.
Km 0.9: Depending on the current and the water level of the Nile river, you can go up or down the river, in my case I finally found myself in a class I-II current/rapid that was impossible to go up with a packraft. It is time to change our direction of navigation from south to north and let the peaceful current of the Nile carry us along.
Km 1.7: We cross the Sehel Island boat crossing again.
Km 2.4: A small optional portage (it is possible to sail further south before turning west) allows us to skirt the northern side of Sehel Island. This section has to be sailed close to the shore and overcome a strong current against the current.
Km 3.7: We reach the "beaches" on the west coast of Sehel Island, here we can see herds of goats and hear the call to prayer from the nearby mosque.
Km 4.5: We skirt an island on its south side, from here in the distance we can see the northern part of the Aswan Dam infrastructure. We stop rowing against the current to take advantage of the Nile's thrust and approach the colourful Nubian villages on the west bank of the Nile.
Km 5: We sail between Feluccas and Nubian motor boats, in an area that is well worth a visit, the west bank of the Nile in Aswan and its Nubian villages, with an authentic atmosphere, I was on holiday and the locals took the opportunity to swim in the beaches of the Nile.
Km 5.6: Visit to a local Nubian beach, where the locals were relaxing on their weekly holiday.
Km 6.3: one of the most spectacular sites I have ever been to in Packraft, a beach of dunes touching the desert, a landscape of contrast between the deep blue-green of the Nile and the colours of the desert dunes.
Km 7: We started the navigation through the labyrinthine set of passages between the mini islands of the Isis Island area in Aswan. It was late afternoon and a public holiday, and crowds of Nubian motorboats were making their way up the currents of the Nile to reach the Nubian villages on the west bank or simply to party with the local music blaring. You'll be waving often.
Km 7.5: narrow passage with a certain current where you have to share the narrow passage with the boats going up the Nile. Be careful, stay close to the shore and keep a lookout.
Km 8.1: we pass through a channel from which we can observe the large resorts of the island of Isis. Here if you are lucky you will see the blue cock in some small wetlands or you can try to imitate the local boys who, with some very old surfboards, hitch themselves to the Nubian boats surfing against the current of the Nile.
Km 8.5: We cross the narrow channel between Isis Island and Elephantine Island with the aim of returning to the east bank of the immense Nile River.
Km 8.9: Arrival at the GoInn backpacker hostel, we disembark directly on the terrace of the hostel, where we can relax, have a drink at the bar, talk to other backpackers and enjoy a nice dinner watching the sunset on the west bank of the Nile River.

La aventura empieza en el embarcadero de los ferries hacia la isla de Sehel. En la foto podéis ver el packraft Itiwit 100 listo para empezar la aventura. Al fondo al otro lado de este canal del río Nilo esta la isla de Sehel

This is almost total self-sufficiency, even with crutches! All the luggage (except for the vest and paddle provided by a local kayaking club) from my trip to Egypt is in this photo.

The camps and the rapids area

I wouldn't mind spending a few days relaxing in these camps the next time I visit this area. Stone islands in the middle of the Nile River.

Un detalle:¿observais la linea de nivel máximo del agua? Hay que tenerlo en cuenta por que con mas agua igual no es posible esta ruta navegando aguas arriba a causa de la corriente.

The mini portage

To save myself extra navigation and a bit of current against the Nile River at kilometre 2.4, I ported over a small isthmus while watching a Feluca slowly pass by.

West coast of Sehel Island

At the beginning, once on the other side of Sehel Island, there is a narrower channel where you will have to work hard to overcome the current. Then things calm down and you'll see the first tourist accommodation on Sehel Island. The diversity of accommodation in Aswan ensures that everyone can find one to their liking.

As you can see in the photos, the environment is special. And although many doubted and asked me many questions about it, the water of the Nile River is very clean. We have many prejudices against certain cultures and certain countries... what can we do about it, the good thing is that we can only be positively surprised when travelling to these sometimes reviled places.

Mapa de situación del punto más al sur de la excursión, una isla deshabitada con vistas a lo lejos de la presa norte de Asuán, la pequeña.

The west coast of the Nile at Aswan and its Nubian settlements

The colourful atmosphere is surprising, with so many white houses, very Mediterranean. People greet me from the shore, I don't think it is very common to see a packraft in the area...

Nubian local beach

In Aswan, the Nubians have beaches that in Europe would surely have the blue flag and with fresh water instead of salt water 😍. It is not only tourists and travellers who appreciate these places, locals also come to these beaches on their holidays to relax and get together with friends and family.

The shoreline combines hotels, jetties, locals' houses, beach bars for relaxing, in a mix of colours that you watch as your packraft glides slowly by on the gentle current of the Nile River. The calm water is only interrupted from time to time by the passing of a motor boat and the corresponding greeting with its occupants.

The highlight of the trip is already in sight, the desert with its golden sand dunes caressing the waters of the Nile River 😍.

The desert on the banks of the Nile

And we arrived at the place I fell in love with. But first an icing on the cake, we watch the camels (or dromedaries, I can't tell them apart with saddles on) relaxing on the sand as they watch the Nile and a hanging packrafter pass by them.

And relax! Legs loose, I stretch my body and my limbs after a few hours in the paddling position. I love whitewater more than the chuf(l)a, but these moments of relaxation...

Isis Island

After relaxing for a while on the desert beaches, I continue to relax (my paddling position has been more horizontal than vertical for a while now 😜) this time navigating through the intricate set of passes and canals between the islands and mini islands of Isis Island.

I'm waving to the boats coming upstream as I try to avoid being run over by some Egyptian driver.

In some of these channels the engines of these boats have to struggle to overcome the currents that form the occasional easy rapid, but with enough power that this route is most probably not possible to do in packraft and in the opposite direction.

At kilometre 7.5 there is a narrow channel through which most of the boats pass, if you pass through here during rush hour you may have to wait for the right moment to get in and avoid running head on into the narrow rapid where the boats struggle to get up the river and you struggle to avoid colliding with them.

In this area you will find many reed beds and wetlands where you can observe the wildlife and birds that inhabit the area.

The wild landscape is combined with the hotel and tourism "infrastructure", in fact most of the surface of the island of Isis is occupied by a hotel/resort complex.

Don't miss the video of the surfing children of Isis Island, who take advantage of the passing boats to play with the waves and even get hooked on some of them to surf and ask the tourists travelling on these boats for a few coins.

Evidentemente se te escapa una sonrisa cuando en medio del río Nilo encuentras esta referencia a tu ciudad natal.

Los "ninos surfers" esperando el paso de una embarcación frente al resort que ocupa la mayoría del espacio de la isla de Isis.

¡Barcelona es definitivamente famosa en el mundo entero!

The blue water "polla"

🛶 "Packrafting, birds and posturing: the time I discovered the blue (water) polla".

I was cruising solo on a calm stretch of the Nile, in the middle of a long day of packrafting. The sun was beginning to set, gilding the water as if the river knew I was there for more than just paddling. And in that almost sacred silence, among the reeds on the bank, something moved.

An elegant figure, deep blue, with a red beak.... He stared at me for a second as if to say, "You're not from here, are you?"

I, evidently, had no idea what it was. But then, without thinking, I launched a Google Lens. Bingo! "Blue water polla", the app said.

And that's when I got the impostor syndrome, specifically the impostor ornithologist syndrome.

I took a couple of photos as best I could, obviously blurry, and wrote a message to Carlos and Curro, my real ornithologist colleagues:

"Guys, I've just spottedPorphyrio porphyrioin full twilight activity in a nilotic wetland. Spectacular colouring. Discreet behaviour, but dominant in the reed zone. Possible territorial feeding pattern. Flip-flopping."

Silence. Then Curro's answer:

"Since when do you know so much, man?"

And from Carlos:

"Did you become an ornithologist in 30 seconds or are you using apps again?"

I just sent a sunglasses emoji 🕶️ and paddled on. Because on the Nile, you don't just find birds... you also find the art of pretending you know a lot more than you know.

Localización del estrecho paso y de la llegada a isla de Isis. Observad la infinidad de canales y pasos a explorar...

Canal between Isis Island and Elephantine Island. Arrival at the hostel

And to finish off the trip, close to sunset and with those special colours of the golden hour. I cross the channel that separates the island of Isis and the Elephantine island and I sail between Feluccas and large granite blocks of stone to the end of my excursion, the pier of the hostel where I will stay. At that moment I don't know it yet, but a dinner on the banks of the Nile awaits me, ideal to recover and to remember and keep forever the memory of a very special day.

At sunset, it was a local holiday on Friday, I came across many boats with locals and tourists spending the afternoon visiting the Nile River.

Packraft en el río Nil. Asuán Islas de Hesel

My Google Map

Packraft y Feluca en el río Nilo

Alojamiento. GoInn Backpackers hostel

My recommendation for cheap accommodation with a luxurious terrace in front of the Nile River is GoInn Baclpackers hostel and as you can see from the Google reviews I am not the only one with this opinion. It's also a great embarkation or disembarkation point to visit the Nile in your packraft or in the kayak that you can rent at the hostel.

See you at the river, habibis!

Nile Kayak Club

I would like to sincerely thank the Nile Kayak Club for their collaboration in this adventure, lending me the paddle and waistcoat to enjoy the Nile in packraft. Their kindness and support made this unique experience possible. If you are thinking of experiencing the river from the inside, I recommend you to hire their rental services, both for the quality of the material and the friendly service of the team.

You can follow them and contact them through their social networks and website:

🌐 nilekayakclub.org

📸 Instagram

📘 Facebook

The river is a living environment, changing and subject to permanent development. The publishers of the river sketches and the creators of this website cannot be held liable in any case of inaccuracy, omission or error in the river sketches. The topos editors and website creators disclaim all liability in case of any accident that may occur on the rivers described in this guide.