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Una River. The jewel of whitewater kayaking in the Balkans. Packrafting in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Packrafting in the Una River National Park. From Štrbaćki buk to Lohovo

By Packrafting.cat

September 22^nd, 2025

The Una River

The Una River (in Serbian Cyrillic: Уна, pronounced [ûna]) is a river that forms the border between Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia, and is a right tributary of the Sava River, which in turn is a tributary of the great Danube River. It forms part of the Black Sea drainage basin, and its basin covers an area of 10,200 km², of which 8,080 km² belong to Bosnia and Herzegovina and 2,120 km² to Croatia. The total length of the river is 212 km.

Its source is near the village of Donja Suvaja in Croatia, and its mouth is near the village of Jasenovac on the border with Bosnia.

Una River. The jewel of whitewater kayaking in the Balkans. Packrafting in Bosnia and Herzegovina

The Una River was named by the ancient Romans; in Latin, Una means 'one' or 'the only one'. The Una River is particularly interesting for its characteristic travertine structures. Mosses (bryophytes), due to their structure, are capable of retaining precipitated calcite and are an indispensable link in the process of creation and growth of these geological formations. Travertines often create natural "lakes or swamps" because these formations tend to stop the flow of water, acting as "natural dams".

Thanks to this unique feature, the Una River has numerous travertine waterfalls, the most fascinating of which is Štrbački Buk, whose highest drop reaches approximately 20 metres.

The main tributaries on the right are the rivers Krka, Unac, Krušnica and Sana, while the largest tributary on the left is the Klokot River. The longest source of the river is the Unac.

The largest and most important town on the banks of the river is Bihać. Other notable towns and localities are Bosanska Krupa, Bosanski Novi and Bosanska Kostajnica.

The river is characterised by a large number of waterfalls, rapids, karst springs and relatively untouched nature. Much of the upper section of the river forms part of the Una National Park.

Una National Park

The Una River National Park is renowned for its crystal clear waters, impressive waterfalls and almost untouched nature. Among all its wonders, I recommend visiting at least these three spots: Štrbački Buk, Martin Brod and Kulen Vakuf.

1. Štrbački Buk

Undoubtedly the jewel of the park, Štrbački Buk is an impressive series of waterfalls and rapids stretching for approximately 400 metres. The water cascades down from several levels, creating a unique visual and auditory spectacle.

I recommend walking along the designated trails and enjoying the panoramic viewpoints, taking photos of the waterfall and the Una River. Be sure to go at sunset (for the best photos) or early in the morning, as during peak season in August there are many visitors and admission costs 8 BAM, about €4.

2. Martin Brod

Martin Brod is a picturesque village surrounded by nature and water. It is notable for its historic mills and its waterfall, which is part of the Una River. The combination of history, traditional architecture and natural landscapes makes Martin Brod a very photogenic place.

To visit the waterfall, you have to pay 5 BAM, a little over €2 (although it seems that some visitors entered via a path upstream of the Una River). The rest of the mills and walkways are free.

3. Kulen Vakuf

Kulen Vakuf is one of the most authentic and least crowded areas of the park and the riverside village with the most amenities. The area also has significant historical heritage, with traditional architecture and ancient remains of the settlement.

The village is well worth a visit and is the ideal place to eat, with its many restaurants.

Sections

According to various sources, the most notable sections are:

🟢 T1 Martin Brod a Kulen Vakuf. 9.7 km Clase I-II.
🟡 T2 Štrbački Buk and Lohovo. 12.7 km. Class III.
🟠 T3 Camping Kostela in Ostrozac and Bosanska Krupa. 28.8 km. Class II-II+

There may be other navigable sections, particularly upstream from Martin Brod, where expeditions through remote and little-explored areas are suggested.

The T2 section is the classic section par excellence, the one most rafting companies use. It has everything: adrenaline with class III rapids and a unique setting.

The T1 section runs through the heart of the National Park and is suitable for kayaking in calm waters.

Section T3 is of intermediate difficulty, but it has the advantage of passing through a beautiful canyon.

T1 Martin Brod to Kulen Vakuf

It looks like a very peaceful stretch, with beautiful surroundings. Here is the Wikiloc map:

Packrafting on the Una River. Bosnia and Herzegovina. From Martin Brod to Kulen Vakuf

We haven't done this section yet, but we'll share the information we have with you.

The car park at the boarding area is a good place to spend the night, although some of us prefer to spend an inhospitable and quiet night at the abandoned Martin Brod train station with Bosnian rave music playing in the background.

T2 Štrbački Buk to Lohovo

The classic section, the most interesting and recommended if you only have time to do one section. However, it is not a section for whitewater beginners, although it is not very difficult (class III).

The most noteworthy kilometre points are:

Km 0: We embark downstream from Štrbački Buk, where we access the walkways that allow us to enjoy the views of the impressive waterfall. There are several places to embark, but we chose (see maps Wikiloc or Google My Map) a quiet backwater near the last rapid in the area. To get there, you have to reach the end of the footbridges, start walking downstream and after a few metres you will see a marked path that leads down to the embarkation pool. I have rarely had the opportunity to enjoy such spectacular boarding points. The Štrbački Buk waterfall is a sight to behold. At the boarding point, there is the option of entering a short and fun class III rapid.
Km 0.2: After just a few metres, we reach the first rapid. This section of the Una River is notable for its rapids and pools, with short rapids but interesting drops followed by a stretch of calm water. I really liked the rapids; they are not particularly difficult (class III) but have very interesting drops and boofs.
Km 0.2 to km 1.8: A very interesting stretch of rapids, with a setting of supernatural beauty and short but intense rapids, very varied with all kinds of lines. Depending on the time of day, you will share the stretch with other rafting companies in the area.
Km 1.8: last rapid in the most interesting section in terms of white water. Start of calm waters with occasional rapids that do not exceed class II.
Km 2.8: An island about a hundred metres long where we chose the left branch.
Km 4.4: Much calmer than the initial rapids, but we once again encounter rapids to overcome in this area. Although the difficulty of the rapids has decreased, the beauty of the surroundings remains undiminished.
Km 6.3: Right next to a double waterfall is one of the first points where it is possible to leave the route. On the right bank of the river are the facilities of Una Aquarius, one of the companies that ends its route right here.
Km 9.2: we reach the railway bridge, now abandoned. Here, rafting companies let their customers climb onto the bridge and jump off, and even the most intrepid among us on our descent down the Una River couldn't resist the temptation. It is possible to walk the entire length of the railway line, and I think it is an opportunity to enter the Una River from the Croatian side and exit at this bridge, then walk back with our packrafts along the railway line. The only point to consider is that the entry point into the water at Štrbački Buk on the Croatian side is not very clear.
Km 10.3. We will see a camping area on the left bank. This is where the road from Lohovo ends. Most companies pick up the rafts and their customers here.
Km 10.7: We come to the penultimate travertines and enter a more urbanised area with campsites, houses and flats on both banks, but which has retained its charm, with attractive moorings and gardens belonging to the flats.
Km 12.4: After a long stretch of calm waters, the final surprise arrives. Two final waterfalls, the second with a drop of between 1.5 m and 2 m, with different jumping points, which you can repeat as many times as you like. They are very entertaining and photogenic jumps. As is common in other rivers in the area, such as the Mrzenica, after a stretch of flat water, you will encounter a waterfall or small cascade that causes these calm waters.
Km 12.7: Disembark at Lohovo (Google maps). On the right bank, just after the slap (waterfall), there is a beach that is highly valued by locals. In our case, we had parked the car in the car park at the end of Lohovo, near the Eko Selo Natura Art restaurant, where there is a very nice landing area with a mill. The restaurant owners let us land here without any problems and even use the picnic tables to dry and collect all our equipment.

Consult the maps on wikiloc and Google My maps for more information about the route.

Put in

Downstream from Štrbački buk, at the end of the footbridges, there are several boarding points.

Rafting companies load the rafts upstream of the 20-metre waterfall and launch them down the waterfall. Only some guides and the odd crazy customer go down a "path" that ends in a jump into the waterfall. Most customers cross the waterfall via footbridges and are reloaded at points such as the one in the photo on the right. It really is a sight to see the rafts loading up with people...

It is important to note that there are three options to consider in terms of permits and how to embark at this point:

The first option is to speak to a rafting company, and after paying for their services in advance, go down with your packraft and them guiding you.
Pay for the permit to navigate the Una River and embark on your own without guides. You must pay the 8 BAM (€4) fee to cross the footbridges and the navigation permit.
Embark and disembark on the Croatian side and pay nothing.

The Una River National Park price list indicates that it costs 12 BAM + 3 BAM for the two sections we will be navigating (see table below), which comes to a total of just over €6. The truth is that no one at the entrance to the waterfall knew anything, even telling us that we couldn't go down (obviously, we had to pay a rafting company). It is very possible that permission must be obtained at the national park's main headquarters.

I recommend contacting https://npuna.com/en/contact/ in advance to obtain up-to-date information on permits to access the national park.

Fortunately, packrafts are notable for their ability to go unnoticed, especially when they are in a rucksack, and we would like to emphasise how friendly the rafting guides were (they even marked the line for us and waited for us).

Un de los posibles puntos de embarque aguas abajo de la gran cascada de Štrbački buk. Al fondo se puede apreciar el punto donde realmente embarcamos

Get out

We disembarked on the right bank of the river, in Lohovo (Google maps). More information in the section Lohovo disembarkation.

Štrbaćki buk

If you can set aside an extra morning or afternoon to visit the waterfalls, I highly recommend it. As a boarding point, it is a very special place, but if you go with the idea of boarding and doing the whitewater section with the rafting companies, you may not fully enjoy the experience, as there are too many things happening at once.

Una National Park is possibly the most sought-after natural attraction for tourists in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Therefore, you can expect that you will not be alone during the peak summer season, but I should also mention that it is nowhere near as crazy as Plitvice Lakes nearby in Croatia.

If you go at sunset or early in the morning, or outside of peak season, you can enjoy the place in relative peace and quiet.

Parking and walkways in Štrbaćki buk

To get to Štrbaćki Buk, there are two options. Here I will describe the option via the right bank (Bosnia and Herzegovina). The Croatia option is described in more detail here.

The car park is accessed via a very narrow paved road, but it is perfectly passable by car. This route follows the Una River for several kilometres upstream from Štrbaćki Buk, and there are several campsites in the area where you can stay. See the Accommodation section.

Be careful with Google Maps because it indicates that you can reach the campsite by other routes, but I think it's only possible on foot because once we arrived at the car park, I didn't see any alternative route to get to the car.

Just before reaching the campsite, you will see the boarding points for the rafting companies. You may be tempted to board here, but the only problem is the 20-metre waterfall that awaits you a few hundred metres further on 😉.

There is a booth where you pay the entrance fee to the waterfall, which you must pay to access the walkways, an ideal spot to appreciate Štrbaćki Buk and also to find a boarding point downstream from the waterfall.

From the footbridges, you can also access a path that we did not take, which follows the right bank of the Una River.

Capture this patriotic Bosnian moment with my camera.

This panoramic view allows you to appreciate the beautiful boarding area. Heaven exists!

Well, fewer words and more images of what you can find in this splendid place.

The colours of Štrbaćki buk at sunset are a unique experience.

The quality of Grigori's camera is evident:

A few years ago, I visited this waterfall with my family. How lovely! 😍

In the photo above, you can clearly see the main 20-metre waterfall, followed by a smaller one on the right bank. This second waterfall is made by rafting companies, and I still have to take a photo here. With a good photographer friend, it could be a winning photo, boofing the waterfall with Štrbaćki Buk in the background 😍. I'm thinking of someone specific who I know wouldn't mind organising an expedition to Bosnia at all😉.

First rapids

Very quickly, a few metres after embarking (see embarkation pool in the photo above), the section of very interesting waterfalls and rapids begins. These rapids are of the step/pool type, similar to those on the Mrzenica River, with drops or small waterfalls, although more navigable, followed by a pool. This is due to the classic travertines in this area. The difference with the Mrzenica River is that here there is a current between rapids.

As you can see on the map below, there are a total of 13 rapids/waterfalls marked on the OpenStreetMap map. Fun is guaranteed.

We happened to be there at the same time as several rafting companies, and for novices like us who were rafting down this stretch of river for the first time, it wasn't too bad! They were very nice, nobody said anything about permits, and they even marked out the lines for us and waited for us, creating a safety point after some rapids.

I suppose it's not the first Packraft the guides have seen, but many of them probably haven't seen one either, and I also think that until they saw that we were managing fine, they were worried about us, which we appreciate. These Bosnians are good people.

One of the first rapids has a very interesting line in a slight S-shape, which we have called the S-shaped Rapid of the Money Box. All the water rushes into a money box, and you have to make a slight S-shaped manoeuvre to get through it.

¡Contar las cascadas! 13 apareces en Openstreetmap y ala vez se pueden aprecias perfectamente en la vista vía satelite.

S Rapid "La Hucha"

One of the first rapids has a very interesting line in a slight S-shape where all the water that rushes in is combined in a piggy bank, and you have to make a slight S-shaped manoeuvre to get through it.

A good option to avoid getting stuck in the eddy with water attacking our packraft through the two side tubes, which causes us to earn a lot of points for a good roll, is to ride the right line, maintaining height for as long as possible and finishing with a boof, trying to overcome the aforementioned eddy.

Here we can see the elegance with which Grigori overtakes the fast rider:

Other rapids in the initial section

Dimitri, sorry Boris, I mean Grigori, getting over this funny quick.

Borja overcoming a double waterfall step.

The same step, this time Grigori.

I love Eddie out Russian style 😍

Travertines create rapids that also allow you to approach the rapids in a controlled manner, establish safety points, and take photos like these:

More videos with examples of rapids that you can find.

Area of calmer waters

More peaceful but with beautiful landscapes:

The railway bridge

As we approach the end, it is possible to visit the railway bridge Unska pruga. The abandoned railway line of the Una River:

If you miss the adrenaline rush of the first section of rapids, you can always get your fix by jumping off the bridge:

Area of calm waters between slaps/waterfalls. From Troslav to Dvoslap

This area is more urbanised, with roads leading to apartments, campsites and other accommodation on both banks of the river. But it must be said that everything is very clean, as befits a national park, very well maintained, and the accommodation is well integrated into the natural surroundings with some beautiful jetties. There is apartment accommodation available for €100-150 for four people, where I wouldn't mind spending a few days travelling down this stretch of river each day and ending up in the comfort of your accommodation 🥰.

NOTE: In theory, this section requires an additional permit to navigate it.

Final waterfall

Just when you start to think that the final stretch of calm waters isn't worth it, that we could have easily stopped where the rafting companies end, BAM! The icing on the cake, the best rapid/waterfall of the stretch.

Grigori thoroughly enjoyed it, repeating it multiple times and trying out different lines.

Lohovo. Disembarkation

I love the photos. Without needing to explain much in black and white, I think they convey very well what we experienced, not only on the river but also out of the water at the landing area.

Wikiloc map T2 Štrbaćki Buk and Lohovo

Una River packraft. Packrafting en Bosnia Herezegovina de Cascada Štrbaćki buk a Lohovo

Google My Map

Photos, photos!

T3. Kostela camping section near Ostrozac to Bosanska Krupa. Topo guide to Whitewater Bosnia and Herzegovina

We have drawn up a map of the section of the Una River from Kostel to Bosanska Krupa, which presents no technical difficulties and runs through a spectacular canyon formed by the river. This section is classified as II to II+, and features numerous small travertine waterfalls.

https://white-water.ba/

Topo guide to the Una River

https://white-water.ba/rivers/una

Whitewater Bosnia and Herzegovina Instagram account

Wikiloc map of Ostrozac and Bosanska Krupa

Packraft en Una river Bosnia y Herzegovina. De Bosanska Krupa a camping

Flow rates

The Agency for Hydraulic Production of the Sava River provides tables and a real-time map:

https://vodostaji.voda.ba/#Vodostaj.

The two meters that may be of interest to you are:

El map de la agencia La Agencia para la producción hidráulica del río Sava

Team

Gracias Grigori por estas bonitas fotos perfectas para Tin...

A great team with whom I thoroughly enjoyed this river.

Unska pruga. The abandoned railway line of the Una River

The Una railway (Unska pruga) is a railway line connecting Split and Zagreb, one section of which follows the course of the Una River. Between Bihać and Knin, the line crosses the border between Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina several times.

The section between Štrbački Buk and Lohovo closely follows the course of the river, offering views of waterfalls, rapids and almost untouched forests.

Construction of the line began in 1936, led by the French company Batignolles, although various factors such as the composition of the terrain and the Second World War delayed its completion. To adapt to the terrain conditions in the Una region, the track had to be moved to the left bank of the river, which also made it possible to adjust the construction schedule.

Before the war, a large part of the route had been completed, but the Štrbački Buk – Lohovo section was finished and put into service after the war, within the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, towards the end of the 1940s. The line was electrified in 1987, allowing speeds of up to 120 km/h, although only on some sections.

La línea ferroviaria Unska pruga fue severamente dañada y dejó de operar hasta su cierre durante la Guerra de Bosnia (1992-1995) debido a los intensos combates y la destrucción de infraestructuras. Aunque se han realizado esfuerzos para restaurarla, el proceso ha sido lento y complicado debido a la falta de recursos y la compleja situación política en la región. Por ejemplo, en 2017, Bosnia y Croacia firmaron un acuerdo para rehabilitar toda la ruta entre Bosanski Novi (Novi Grad) y Knin, pero hasta la fecha no se ha iniciado la rehabilitación ni se han reanudado los servicios internacionales de trenes. Aunque existen planes para su rehabilitación, la falta de avances concretos ha impedido su reapertura hasta el momento.

Hoy, el tramo de Štrbački Buk a Lohovo conserva su valor histórico y turístico: los viajeros pueden disfrutar de vistas del río Una y sus cascadas, así como del bosque circundante, mientras recorren una de las vías más pintorescas de la región, que combina ingeniería ferroviaria y naturaleza virgen.

Parque Nacional Una - Debido al gran interés, el tradicional tren turístico rotatorio volverá a operar el 19 de agosto

Access from the Croatian side. Unska Vila and Una Mamea Park

Unska Rest

https://park4night.com/es/place/104263 The best place to see the waterfalls! Almost no tourism in contrast to the Bosnian side. The owner kindly invited me for wine and food and I had a great time there. Dreamer! Vidikovac Unska Vila on Facebook

UNA MAMEA PARK

Don't worry about the road its now tarmac all the way to the carpark. Its about 15 min drive from the main road. Entry is still free and no signs of it changing. They are still working on facilities at the falls edge, but there are tables… Más

There are other reviews explaining that even though it is public land, someone is occupying the property and charging a false entrance fee.

Acceso al río Una por la zona Croata. El camino Unska vila

The restaurant

Although the Eko Selo Natura Art wasn't the cheapest place we stayed in Bosnia and Herzegovina, hunger got the better of us and it must be said that the presentation and quantity of meat was more than adequate 🤣:

Una River International Regatta

Traditionally, the Una River also hosts the Una International Regatta, an event that attracts numerous people from all over the world every year. In addition, the river offers various sections for kayaking, for example from Martin Brod to Bosanska Otoka.

Event page: they are now in their 51st edition in 2025.

Accommodation

We stayed at the Kamp Kestenovac campsite, which was very reasonably priced at €10 for two people. It was a great base, close to the waterfall, and at this price, the campsite is unrivalled. It is located in front of the river in a calm area that is also navigable.

The reviews on Park4Night are very positive: https://park4night.com/es/place/502867

Martin Brod

Well worth a visit, more Travertino waterfalls:

In Martin Brov, you will find a campsite that offers good accommodation, a visit to the waterfalls, and some culture with a visit to the modern Orthodox church.

Martin Brod is a picturesque village surrounded by nature and water. It is notable for its historic mills (see photos below) and its waterfall, which is part of the Una River. The combination of history, traditional architecture and natural landscapes makes Martin Brod a very photogenic place.

To visit the waterfall, you have to pay 5 BAM, a little over €2 (although it seems that some visitors entered via a path upstream of the Una River). The rest of the mills and walkways are free.

Other places to visit on the way to Sarajevo

Some of the places we visited:

Kulen Vakuf

I have fond memories of this quiet village, as I stayed here with my family many years ago.

A place to cool off in the refreshing waters of the Una River.

The river is a living, changing environment that is subject to constant development. The publishers of the river sketches and the creators of this website cannot be held responsible in any way for any inaccuracies, omissions or errors in the river sketches. The publishers of topos and creators of websites decline all responsibility in the event of any accident that may occur on the rivers described in this guide.