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Packrafting on the Neretva River from Mostar to Žitomislići via the Bunski Canal

By Packrafting.cat

December 8^th, 2025

Previous sections T1 and T2 of the Neretva

Packraft en el río Neretva. Bosnia y Herzegovina

T3 from Mostar to Žitomislići via the Bunski Canal

Without a doubt, one of the most special stretches I have ever paddled. Paddling in an urban environment, especially on a river as beautiful as the Neretva, is always a special moment. Add to that the fact that we will be crossing a canal, the Bunski Canal, at full speed with rapids surrounded by blue waterfalls, and you have another TOP route to add to the collection.

I had already packrafted through a famous city before, in Bern.

Packrafting on the Neretva River from Mostar to Žitomislići via the Bunski Canal

Put in

The urban beach in Mostar, Plaža Pijesak Carina, is an ideal place to embark, at least outside the summer swimming season. I was able to park nearby, right where the path down to the beach begins. What's more, it's close to Mostar station, where I'll get off the train on my way back from the landing point at Zitomislici.

Take out

If you are travelling with two cars, the best place to disembark is probably after the Bunski Canal. But in my case, I only had one car. The good thing about leaving from one of the main cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Mostar, is that it has public transport by train, which is why I extended my rowing trip to the village of Zitomislici, where there is a basic train station.

However, do not expect frequent service; there are only two trains a day in this direction, and one is very early in the morning, so the option just before 5 p.m. is the only option.

The best place to disembark near the station is on the right bank, a hundred metres downstream from the bridge in the village of Zitomislici, at the Konoba Narenta bar. This bar seems to only open in summer.

From the landing stage to the station, it is a comfortable walk of less than 5 minutes.

On the left bank, near the bridge, there is a campsite which, if you are staying there, could be another option for disembarking.

The most noteworthy kilometre points are:

Km 0: Boarding at Mostar beach, Plaža Pijesak Carina. Accessible from a path on the left bank near the Carinski Bridge.
Km 0.2: Example of a bridge, Carinski Bridge.
Km 0.2: The first and most powerful rapid. Avoid entering the "false wave" because there is a hole with rocks behind it. The entrance to the rapid is via the tongue, and you must be prepared for the impact of the currents coming from the left and right. Class III+ rapid, portable.
Km 0.7: Most Musala Bridge
Km 0.9: Most Bunur footbridge
Km 1.4: I think this is the first time I've rowed so close to a mosque: Koski Mehmed pašina džamija.
Km 1.6: The famous bridge of Mostar, the Stari Most.
Km 1.8: Puente Lucki Most.
Km 2.8: Another bridge.
Km 5.6: Another bridge with a class II rapid beforehand.
Km 6.4: On the right bank, water discharged from the treatment plant is added.
Km 7.1: The first island.
Km 8.2: Railway bridge that I will use to return to the boarding point.
Km 11: Second island.
Km 13: Entrance to the Bunski Canal. I'll put it in capital letters: ONE OF THE MOST IMPRESSIVE PLACES WHERE YOU CAN PADDLE. Spectacular 800 metres of continuous current, with no technical difficulty, just enjoy the countless waterfalls that cascade down the left bank of the Buna River.
Km 13.5: The Bunski Canal Bridge, the Bunski canal Most, is the ideal spot for taking spectacular photographs.
Km 13.8: Exit of the Buna River canal
Km 15: Quickly turn left at the bend in the river heading south.
Km 15.7: Another rapid
Km 18.6: last fast section.
Km 19.6: The Zitomislici Bridge.
Km 19.9: Disembark at the Konoba Narenta bar

Carinski Bridge Rapid

The Carinski Bridge is home to the most powerful rapid on the stretch. In fact, the degree of difficulty is much higher than the rest of the area. A good option for those who want to enjoy this route without technical complications is to carry their boats around this rapid.

If you want to paddle the rapid, it is important to scout the right bank. Be careful, as the "wave" you see at the entrance may seem very tempting, but it actually hides a hole behind it where you could get trapped between two rocks. The best line is to enter via the green tongue and try to attack the whitewater landing zone to the right or left, attacking the currents that hit the centre line. Either you hit one of the two currents first, or it will hit you sideways 😆 and you'll end up swimming. In any case, swimming at this point has no consequences, as there is a pool at the end of the rapid where you can recover.

The mosque

I have tried hard to remember if I had ever seen a large mosque from the river, and I cannot recall a similar image. Perhaps that is why hearing the call to prayer while rowing on the Neretva was such a magical moment: the echo of the adhan mingled with the murmur of the water and the sound of the wind, creating an atmosphere that is difficult to describe.

The Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque (Koski Mehmed Paša Džamija) is one of the most iconic landmarks in Mostar, its silhouette dominating the eastern bank of the river. Built in 1617, this jewel of the Ottoman period rises elegantly above the stone houses, offering one of the most impressive views of the Stari Most and the old town. From its minaret, accessed by a narrow, steep stone staircase, you can enjoy a panoramic view that seems suspended between history and eternity: the grey rooftops, the impossibly emerald green river, and the perfect arch of the Mostar Bridge reflected in the water.

In this part of the Neretva, it is common to come across small motorboats carrying tourists to view the bridge from the water. There are several beaches and bathing areas. If, like me, you visit out of season, you will find an almost poetic tranquillity; but in summer, this stretch of the river comes alive.

From the mosque, you can see the Mostar Bridge perfectly. In the surrounding area, it is common to see local divers jumping from the top of the bridge—a centuries-old tradition—and every year, Mostar hosts one of the world's most famous high diving competitions, organised by Red Bull.

Bridges of Mostar

You will cross many bridges in the urban environment of Mostar, but none like the Stari Most.

Stari Most

Passing under the Stari Most, Mostar's legendary bridge, paddling through the turquoise waters of the Neretva River, is an experience that combines history, adrenaline and wonder. From your kayak, the perfect curve of the arch rises above you like a silent witness to centuries of union and rupture. Built in the 16th century by the Ottomans and destroyed during the war in the 1990s, the bridge was rebuilt stone by stone, becoming a powerful symbol of reconciliation and resistance. As the shadows of the arch are reflected in the water and the murmur of the river accompanies your paddle, you feel that you are crossing more than just a monument: you are crossing a threshold between past and present, between the wound and the beauty that still lives on in Mostar.

El famoso puente de Mostar visto des del río Neretva

The Class II Rapid Bridge

At km 5.6 there is another bridge that stands out for its karstic channels with rapids. The difficulty of this section is class II-II+.

Bunski Canal

Navigating the Bunski Kanal in a packraft is an experience that combines adrenaline and natural beauty at its finest. This spectacular canal, formed by the constant flow of the Neretva river through narrow cliffs and natural rapids, offers a route of 800 metres of pure speed, where every stroke feels like a burst of energy. Its geological origin dates back to karst erosion, which over millennia has carved out a narrow channel surrounded by rocky walls and crystal-clear waters, creating a perfect corridor for the thrill of the descent. Paddling at full speed through the Bunski Kanal not only tests your reflexes, but also immerses you in a breathtaking visual spectacle, with waterfalls, whirlpools and the unparalleled sensation of gliding like lightning through a natural setting that seems tailor-made for packrafting enthusiasts.

The multiple waterfalls on the right bank originate from the tributary, the Buna River, which originates in the impressive karst spring known as Vrelo Bune, located near the picturesque village of Blagaj, southeast of Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina. This spring is one of the most abundant in Europe, with a flow rate of up to 30 cubic metres per second, emerging from a cave at the foot of a vertical cliff 200 metres high.

From its source in Blagaj, the Buna River flows westward for only about nine short but intense kilometres before emptying into the Neretva River near the settlement of Buna, which gives its name to the river and the impressive canal.

Throughout its short course, the Buna River is characterised by its crystal-clear, cold waters, which maintain a constant temperature throughout the year. Its natural surroundings are breathtakingly beautiful, with rock formations and lush vegetation enriching the landscape. The river is also home to a rich biodiversity, including endemic species such as the softmouth trout.

The spring of Vrelo Bune and its surroundings have been recognised for their historical and cultural value. Near the spring is the Blagaj Tekija, an ancient 16th-century Dervish monastery, which represents a harmonious fusion between Ottoman architecture and the natural landscape.

Train logistics

Taking the train in Bosnia is a journey full of contrasts that surprises you from the very first moment. For example, arriving early and not seeing a soul, the station closed, will the train leave on time? Little by little, students arrive with their families. It is Sunday afternoon and they are probably heading to the universities in Sarajevo. The scene reminds me of what I experienced for years with my now wife Begoña, when we returned from Tortosa on Sundays to spend the week and study in Barcelona.

But the surprise comes when you board: the train is modern, a Talgo equipped with information in Spanish and that charming station announcement tune so typical in Spain, which makes you smile and feel a little bit at home as the Bosnian landscape unfolds through large windows. It's a perfect reminder of how the old and the new can coexist in harmony, making the journey not just a transfer, but an experience in itself.

Wikiloc Map

Packraft en el río Neretva de Mostar a Žitomislići pasando por el Bunski canal.

Google My Map

Neretva

More photos of the old town centre of Mostar.

Park4Night. Where to stay?

Spend the night before in Mostar high up in the Mostar Mountains, where you can enjoy wonderful views of the city. There are also excursions and a via ferrata in the area.

Blagaj and Vrelo Bune, source of the Buna River

If you are in Mostar, don't miss the Vrelo Bune spring and its surroundings, which have been recognised for their historical and cultural value. Near the spring is the Blagaj Tekija, an ancient 16th-century Dervish monastery that represents a harmonious fusion of Ottoman architecture and the natural landscape.

In summary, the Buna River, which originates in Vrelo Bune and flows into the Banski Canal, offers a unique experience. Despite its short length, this river creates some of the most charming aquatic locations I have ever visited.

The Blagaj Tekija is an exceptional example of the Sufi tradition within Islam in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Founded in the 16th century, this Dervish monastery served as a place of spiritual retreat and meditation for followers of the Bektashi order, which focuses on the search for inner harmony and connection with the divine through prayer, song and contemplation. The architecture of the Tekija, which blends sublimely into the rocky and riverine landscape, reflects the Sufi philosophy of unity between man and nature, offering visitors a sense of peace and contemplation. Today, the Blagaj Tekija remains a living space of spirituality and Muslim religious practice, where the silent walls tell stories of faith, tradition and cultural coexistence in a region marked by centuries of Ottoman influence.

This calm and unradical faith should be an example of what religions could be if they did not interfere in other people's lives...

Kravica Waterfall

The Kravica waterfalls are also worth a visit. This beautiful river is certainly navigable in some sections, with incredibly clear water, and is something to look forward to on a future visit to Bosnia.

El río es un entorno vivo, cambiante y sujeto a un desarrollo permanente. Los editores de los croquis del río y los creadores de este sitio web no se hacen responsables en ningún caso en caso de inexactitud, omisión o error en los croquis del río. Los editores de topos y creadores de sitios web declinan toda responsabilidad en caso de accidente que pueda ocurrir en los ríos descritos en esta guía.